Basic sighter rig for tight line nymphing for trout from Hatch

Link to this info from Hatch

Building a simple Euro-style tight line nymphing leader

Certainly, the basic “tight line” technique has been around for many years. George Harvey and Joe Humphreys pioneered the technique when bamboo and cat gut where the de facto reg. But over the past several years, the proliferation of tight line techniques that are most often referred to as “Euro-style” nymphing has continued to gain steam and we’ve seen tons of leader formulas and styles to go with it. Czech leaders, French, Polish, Spanish, hell I even think there’s a Latvian leader these days.

A lot of these formulas can be complicated and intimidating to the beginner. Here’s a formula for a basic tight lining trout sighter rig that’s simple to put together and is one you can make without all the headache of buying 37 spools of Maxima (although there’s nothing wrong with owning 37 spools of Maxima). I’ve been using this setup for a while now with good success and find it’s the easiest and most reliable setup for beginners and for teaching people the basics of tight lining.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

RIO Suppleflex leader 13.5’ 4X – This is a soft nylon leader that, as its name suggests, is very supple. Originally designed for long delicate casts with dry flies, thanks to its sensitivity, it’s the perfect material for feeling your rig as it moves through the current and bounces along the bottom.

RIO or Umpqua 3X Two-Tone Indicator Tippet – This is the material that will serve as your “indicator”. If you’re unfamiliar with this line, it’s basically nylon in bright green and orange alternating colors. The Umpqua line changes color every 18” as opposed to RIO’s which changes color every 12”. That color change and the more often it happens helps your eyes pick up the line as you make your drift.

Tippet Rings – If you haven’t picked these up yet, you’re missing out on fly fishing’s “best thing since sliced bread”. You should be using them for all your nymphing needs. They save time, money and a lot of frustration. One note about tippet rings if they’re new to you: for the love of Job don’t take it off the swivel until you tie it to the line. It’s like trying to put an oyster in a parking meter; it’s simply not going to happen. If you take it off the swivel then try to tie it on, it’s going to end up on the ground, lost forever and with you having to put a dollar in the swear jar.

4 through 7X tippet – Whichever brand of fluorocarbon you like, it is denser and sinks faster than nylon.

A Couple of your favorite Nymphs and maybe some split shot – I’ll leave the nymph choice up to you or another article, but make sure that your “point” fly has enough weight to carry the rig down deep and fast. Add split shot to get those flies down fast and keep them on the bottom while you bounce along if you’re fishing faster currents and deeper water. I generally like one or two split placed about midway between flies but will add another above the top fly if I need to get down farther and faster.

THE SETUP

Take the RIO Suppleflex leader and cut off about 24” so you get down to around the 3X diameter section of the leader and a length of 11-11.5’. Then, tie in 24 to 30” of your indicator material to the leader with a blood knot. Make that knot strong, don’t half-ass it. Next, tie your tippet ring to the end of the indicator line and tie on your tippet to the tippet ring.

One note: smaller diameter tippet sinks faster and creates less drag. Faster currents will require you to get your flies in the strike zone with a short drift, so go as light as you dare with your tippet — lets say 5x.

Don’t vary the diameter size on you tippet, different size transitions will create drag in your system and the key to successful tight lining is the elimination of drag. Generally speaking, start with around three to four feet of tippet then tie in another section of 18” or so with a surgeon’s knot, leaving the top tag unclipped so you can tie a fly to it. Vary the tippet length depending on the depth and speed of water you’re fishing. Tie on your flies, heaviest on the bottom, lighter up top and add shot if needed.

Your finished rig should end up around eighteen feet or just about two times the total length of your rod (10 foot rods in 3 through 5 weights are ideal for tight lining).

Hopefully, this simple rig will help to demystify some of the challenges of getting started with tight line and Euro-style nymphing rigs. If so, you’ll be eating blintzes and drinking wine instead of staying up all night with the cold sweats wondering if your 32 foot leader will turn over that size 2 Vladi worm.

Be sure to check out the links to Hatch for more good stuff.

 

NBFF Club Casting Clinic and Meeting

We had a very informative and productive casting clinic.

Minutes of NBFF Membership Meeting

06/26/2021 – River Acres Park

Ron called the meeting to order at 9:30 am.

A short meeting was held after the casting clinic directed by Phil.  Fourteen members and one guest attended. Phil did a great job of helping attendees improve their casting skills.  One comment overheard was “it is good to see the club using internal talent to improve our skills”.

There was no Treasurer’s report.

Pat and Phil volunteered to help Dan Cone with the trout feeding program.  Pat will contact Dan for guidance on how to proceed.  Other members also volunteered to assist.

Gary informed the group that he would like to start fly tying night again in the fall if we could find a place to have it.  Two possibilities are the hospitality room at the Summit or a room at Rio Terra Senior Living in New Braunfels.

Pat also volunteered to coordinate the meetings during July and August.  Possible locations were the Summit, if available, or the River Acres Park and make it a fishing opportunity.

Speakers for the fall were discussed, more will be posted.

Some in the group would like to have another saltwater trip like we had with William Townsend of Light and Fly Guide Service.

The meeting was adjourned.

The key to nymphing isn’t always fishing deep

 

Hatch Mag

Nymphing is one of the most productive fly fishing methods given that trout spend the majority of their time feeding below the surface. Often the question is “what nymphing tactic do I use?” There is no clear-cut answer to this question, simply because there are times when one nymphing tactic is better than others.

In recent years, European nymphing methods have gained an almost cult-like following. This bobber-free (no strike indicator) system involves keeping line and leader off the water while using weighted flies. This reduces surface tension and allows the nymph rig to quickly gain bottom, where fish spend most of their time feeding. This is why European methods are so effective and why they are so often my go-to tactic when nymphing. However, there are times when it pays to fish higher in the water column. During these times, higher typically means just below the water’s surface with a two fly, dry-dropper combination.

Trout are masters of efficiency—they position themselves where the food is. During peak aquatic hatch and terrestrial season, trout will focus more of their effort on feeding towards or on the water’s surface, since that is where the majority of the food is. Aquatic insects including caddis, stonefly, midges and mayflies transform from bottom dwelling critters and emerge to the surface to become winged adults. Trout follow this migration, feeding at the level with the highest concentration of insects.

Dry-dropper fishing involves using a dry fly to act as a strike indicator. In other words, a higher floating/higher visibility dry fly acts like a bobber while a nymph drifts immediately below in the water column. This approach allows the angler to fish immediately at depths slightly farther below the surface. This shallow water approach to nymphing is ideal for periods when fish are looking up towards the surface to feed, especially on those days when it seems like the fish have locked into a feeding zone. The last thing you want to do is fish below actively feeding fish.

As to what dry fly pattern to use, try to match the current food source. If it’s summertime and terrestrials are in play, then try using a hi-vis chubby Chernobyl or a hi-vis foam ant pattern. For most caddis hatches, I use a beefed-up poly-wing caddis. If there are mayflies hatching, I use a beefed-up version of Barr’s Vis A Dun that matches the color and size of the current hatch. But, the only time I use a dry as an indicator fly is when I feel there’s a chance of a trout feeding on the surface. If for whatever reason the trout are feeding high in the water column, but not on the surface, then I suggest using a traditional indicator, which often floats higher and requires less maintenance.

Since the purpose of using a dry-dropper rig is to fish towards the top of the water column, I normally attach the nymph to the bend of the dry fly hook using a short tippet section ranging in length from 10-24” (determined by what I perceive as the trout’s feeding level). A simple five turn clinch knot is all you need to attach the tippet to the dry fly hook. As for the nymph, keep it light, as you don’t need (or want) to fish heavy flies. Use a lightweight beadhead fly (i.e. a 3/32 bead size or smaller) or an unweighted emerger pattern—just enough weight to break the surface tension and drop several inches below the surface.
The key to nymphing isn’t always fishing deep—it’s fishing your flies at the level where trout are feeding. During the times when trout are feeding higher in the water column and are looking up, using the dry-dropper approach is an excellent choice.

by George Daniel – Monday, Jun 14th, 2021

Floatants by Angler’s Covey

NEW BLOG: FOCUS ON FLOATANTS
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Gone are the days where a tube of gink was your only option for keeping your fly dry. Now, though, the options are overwhelming and can get confusing fast. When and why do we choose each type of floatant?
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GEL: Traditional Silicon Floatant Gel, such as Loon Aquel and Gink, work best on patterns fresh out of your fly box before your fly hits the water. These gels work to repel water from the fly to keep it floating longer.
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LIQUID: The @loonoutdoors Fly Dip is a game-changing floatant. To use, you simply dip your fly into the liquid. It quickly dries and seals out water and brings life back into any dry fly, even flies with CDC!
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PASTE: Have you found that keeping your fly floating is more difficult because your tippet is sinking and dragging your fly along with it?
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POWDER: Shimazaki is my all-time favorite. This powder has both a desiccant and floatant in it, which means it not only re-applies floatant to your fly, but actively draws water out of it as well.
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Fly Fishers International Virtual Expo 2021

VIRTUAL EXPO 2021

Fly Fishers International (FFI) has transformed its annual International Fly Fishing Expo into a virtual event for 2021, completely reimagining how fishing enthusiasts from around the world can enjoy the Expo from the comfort of their own home.

“Our goal is to have fun while learning and immersing ourselves in everything fly fishing,”

— Patty Lueken, Chair of FFI’s Virtual Expo Planning Committe

Highlights will include:


• Fantastic classes and workshops from renowned “fishy” folks

• Compelling and important conservation workshops

• Fly tying demonstrations with some of the world’s best

• An online auction culminating in a virtual live auction on Nov 6

• Great giveaways

• Specialty classes on cooking, nutrition, tricking out your camper, “how it’s made,” and other topics to interest fly fishers and non-fishers alike.

“Building off of the incredible success of the FFI Online series — during which we brought the essence of FFI out to the international fly fishing community — the Virtual Expo will bring the fly fishing show experience to you.”
LEARN MORE